25 Dumplings For $4.50

My stomach has a mind of its own. It does not often heed my brain's suggestions to eat in moderation.

At Cafe Glechik in Brighton Beach, my stomach prevailed once again. This venerable Ukrainian cafe specializes in two kinds of dumplings: vareniki (half-moons stuffed with your choice of potato, cabbage, meat, sour cherries or farmer's cheese) and pelmeni, round dumplings filled with either chicken, veal or eggs and cheese. Amazingly, a big plate of 25 plump dumplings costs only $4.50-$7.50. I recommend the vareniki "Kuban" style, with mozzarella, dill and parsley.

(Other favorite dishes of mine at Cafe Glechik are the green borscht and the luxuriously oily smoked mackerel.)

Cafe Glechik: 3159 Coney Island Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 616-0494.